The Complete Guide to Watch Terminology

Jun 20th 2023

The Complete Guide to Watch Terminology

You just spotted the most beautiful watch in the window of your local jewelry store, and you can’t imagine life without it. You’d like to walk in and start asking questions, but you don’t know much about watch parts. Don’t worry! We’re here to break it all down, so you can look like an experienced shopper!

Accuracy: This refers to the preciseness of a watch’s time. Automatic watches are said to keep better time than mechanical watches, which run several seconds slow/fast each day. But quartz watches are reportedly most accurate, only running 30 seconds slow/fast per month.

Automatic: A type of mechanical watch that was introduced in the 20th century and offers a self-winding element. That means movement from your arm throughout the day will keep the watch wound. This type of watch includes the same parts as a mechanical watch, but it also features a rotor, typically a small metal weight that easily moves with your wrist. This little piece is connected to gears that help with the self-winding aspect of the watch.

Balance Wheel: This weighted wheel is referred to as the core of mechanical movement because it accepts the energy that a watch needs to operate. It “beats” multiple times each second, which causes the watch’s hands and gears to move.

Bar: The unit of measurement for pressure/water resistance. This is especially important for diving watches. One bar is equivalent to 10 meters or 30 feet. If you see a watch engraved with this measurement, that means the piece is water resistant up to 30 feet.

Barrel: A cylindrical piece inside of a watch that stores the mainspring, a coil-shaped spring that acts as the primary power source for the watch.

Batgirl: A nickname for the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR, which features a blue and black bezel.

Batman: Similar to the “Batgirl” watch, this is a nickname for the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR, which also features a blue and black bezel.

Bezel: This ring outlines the watch’s dial, and it features different functions, depending on the watch you choose. On some pieces, it simply keeps the crystal in place. Think of the metal ring on a mason jar and how it secures the center disc. On more sophisticated watches (ex. diving watches), the bezel rotates and can measure speed, distance or elapsed time. You’ll often find bezels made with aluminum, stainless steel and ceramic.

Bidirectional Bezel: A ring outlining the watch’s dial that can be turned in two directions. This will come in handy if you’re trying to keep track of time for a specific event.

Bracelet (aka Strap): The bracelet or strap is the piece of material that holds the watch around your wrist. Bracelets usually feature links that can be removed for a better fit. Bracelets are typically made of metal, while straps can often be found in leather, rubber, nylon or other fabrics.

●Common Buckle Types

○ Deployant/Deployment Buckle: Commonly seen on watches with bracelets, this type of buckle uses small, curved metal plates and hinges. The plates fold over each other, in a tri-fold manner, to fasten the watch on your wrist.

○ Tang Buckle: Typically seen on watch straps (vs. bracelets), this is similar to a belt buckle. When you find the appropriate fit, you simply slip the pin through one of the holes on the watch strap and secure the pin against the buckle, which is typically made of stainless steel.

○ Butterfly/Hidden Folding Clasp: A variation of the deployant/deployment buckle, this clasp also features curved, metal plates that fold over each other. The big difference: The locking mechanism is against your wrist, giving the outside of the bracelet a seamless look.

○ Velcro Strap: No buckles or clasps here! You simply overlap the two Velcro straps and secure them for an adjustable fit.

Bridge: A piece/bar that’s anchored to the primary plate, where all parts of a mechanical watch movement are placed. The bridge creates a frame for all of these parts that make the watch tick!

Caliber (or Calibre): Another name for a watch’s movement. Manufacturers typically assign a number to the caliber, which comes in handy when identifying different models and replacement parts.

Case: This refers to the outer piece that holds all watch parts in place. Think of it as the skin on your body. Your bones, muscles and other organs are contained as a result of your skin.

● Common Shapes: You can personalize your watch by choosing a case shape that fits your personality. Some options include:

○ Square

○ Rectangle

○ Cushion (aka square with rounded corners)

○ Tank (aka rectangle with rounded corners)

○ Tonneau (aka barrel-shaped)

○ Oval

○ Carage (aka a horizontal oval)

○ Avante Garde/Asymmetrical

● Common Materials: Gold, platinum, stainless steel, titanium, PVD (physical vapor deposition coated), DLC (diamond-like carbon coated) and ceramic

Caseback: This part is essentially the back of the watch. If it has a window/crystal, you can get a peek into the inner workings of the piece!

Chronograph: A watch with mechanical or quartz movement that includes a stopwatch function along with the main time. You can activate the stopwatch through a set of buttons on the side of the watch.

Chronometer: A highly accurate, certified wristwatch that has been evaluated by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) in Switzerland or a similar institution in another country. To become certified, watches must go through multiple days of testing and keep accurate time when exposed to various positions and temperatures.

Complication: An extra function, besides basic time functions, that might come with your watch, such as the date, a chronograph or second time zone. As the name suggests, one of these added parts results in a more complicated manufacturing process and therefore a more expensive watch.

Cosmograph: Rolex has been engraving its Daytona models with this term since the 1960s. It initially indicated chronographs that displayed phases of the moon. Now, the term is used for all Rolex chronographs.

Crown: You’re probably already familiar with the crown, but you might not know its official name. The crown is the little knob on the side of a watch that allows you to set the time and control other functions. Crowns come in a variety of shapes, including straight pegs, onion-shaped spheres, cones, nail heads, push buttons and subtle, inset buttons.

Crystal: This term refers to the clear covering that protects the watch dial and other interior elements. You look through it every time you check your watch!

● Common Materials: Crystals are often made from glass, acrylic/plastic, mineral and lab-grown sapphire. If you’re looking for a more inexpensive material, acrylic/plastic is the route to go, since small scratches can easily be removed. However, sapphire is the most desired option, as it scores a 9 out of 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale – a scale that ranks the durability of diamonds, gemstones and other minerals.

Cyclops Lens: Another name for the magnifying glass that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf created and patented in the early 1950s. The lens is made of durable sapphire crystal and can be found over the date display in Rolex watches.

Date Window: A small window that displays the date on many modern watches. You’ll likely see it placed at 3 o’clock or on smaller dials.

Day-Date: A feature on the dial of the watch that displays the date and day of the week.

Dial: The main area of your watch that displays the time. On a mechanical watch, the dial features numbers, hands and any other markers. On a digital watch, the dial looks very different, as the time is displayed in digital numbers.

● Common Types

○ Guilloche: These dials feature repeating engraved patterns, like a wave design. However, the term “guilloche” refers to the process that produces such a texture vs. the pattern itself.

○ Tapisserie: Similar to the Guilloche dial, these dials feature a series of tiny, engraved squares that are divided by narrow channels.

○ Linen: This type of dial can be seen on certain vintage watches. Countless vertical and horizontal lines create a pattern that resembles a piece of linen.

○ Meteorite: As the name suggests, the surface of these dials actually incorporates thin, polished slices of meteorites from around the world!

Dive/Diving Watch: This refers to a timepiece that’s water-resistant more than 200 meters underwater. It features a rotating bezel and typically lights up, so it’s visible from a distance.

Easylink: A Rolex-patented feature that can expand a watch’s wrist strap. In a bracelet-style strap, an extra link is typically hidden inside of the buckle. Once that link opens, the strap stretches an additional 5 millimeters.

Escapement/Escape Wheel: This specific piece within the gear train transports equally distributed amounts of energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel.

Fat Lady: A nickname for the Rolex GMT-Master II (Ref. 16760) that features a dark red bezel, similar to the Coca-Cola logo. The nickname is a reference to the thicker case, which sits higher than similar models. Since this model includes sapphire crystal and caliber 3085, a larger size was necessary.

Flyback Function: This feature makes it possible for pilots and other users to easily log multiple times in rapid succession by pushing a single button. In watches without flyback function, you would need to stop the chronograph function and press a button three times to achieve the same results.

Frequency: This term refers to the speed of a watch’s ticks/beats, which is determined by the balance wheel. Frequency is calculated by vibrations per hour (aka hertz). A common frequency for modern, high-end mechanical watches is roughly 28,000 VpH (or 4 Hz). Some watches, however, register at 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) or higher, and they’re labeled “high-beat watches.”

Gear Train: A group of small, connected gears that carries energy from the mainspring to the escapement.

GMT: A Rolex watch that was initially designed for pilots in the 1950s, as it can keep track of two time zones simultaneously. The acronym stands for Greenwich Mean Time, and it has since become useful for all travelers.

Hand: Another name for the arrows that move around the dial and point to the various numbers and markers to indicate the time.

Haute Horlogerie: A French term that refers to the highest standard of watches, particularly in design, technical innovation and finishing.

Hulk: A nickname for the Rolex Submariner (Ref. 116610LV), which is known for its green shade and ceramic (aka “cerachrom”) bezel.

Index/Indices: Markings on the dial of a watch, typically dashes or dots, that indicate hours, minutes or seconds instead of numerals.

Jewels: Often synthetic rubies and sapphires that are incorporated into a watch’s movement to decrease friction among the moving parts and make the watch last longer. Mechanical watches feature roughly 18 jewels but more are added to watches with extra complications.

Kermit: A nickname for the Rolex Submariner (Ref. 16610LV), which is known for its black dial and green aluminum bezel.

Link: One of many connected pieces that make up a metal watch bracelet.

Lug: One of multiple pieces that attach to the base of the watch and connect it to the bracelet/strap.

● Common Types

○ Straight: Most popular lug style featuring – you guessed it – a straight, geometric look. These can be thinner or wider to match the design of the watch.

○ Speedy/Bombe: Known for their straight appearance with an edge that curves inward.

○ Explorer: Similar to Speedy lugs, these are also straight with a curved edge. But they have more of a square shape and taper near the bottom.

○ Shrouded/Hooded: Rectangular in shape, these lugs connect the watch case to the bracelet with a horizontal bar.

○ Teardrop: Typically found in vintage watches, these lugs sport a teardrop shape, as the name suggests.

○ Cushion: Also common in vintage watches, these are shaped like cushions (squares with rounded corners).

○ Crab Claw: This shape resembles crab claws, forming space between the watch case and bracelet/strap.

Luminescence: A glow that you might see on the hands and numerals/indices of a watch. These features have been coated with a photoluminescent material to help you check the time in the dark or dim lighting.

Mainspring: A coil-shaped spring that acts as the primary power source for the watch.

Maxi Dial: A Rolex dial that features larger luminous dots, which give the watch a bigger, bolder look.

Movement: Also known as caliber, this is what makes a clock tick. Movement is often called the motor or engine of a watch.

● Common Types: Watches primarily function with three types of movement: mechanical, automatic and quartz.

○ Mechanical: Watches with mechanical movement are able to operate without any electrical source, such as a battery. They’re instead wound by hand, and the wound springs provide energy to run the watch.

○ Automatic: These watches are types of mechanical watches, but they don’t have to be manually wound via the crown. Instead, a tiny rotor that sits inside of the watch moves with your wrist, triggers the watch’s mainspring and winds itself.

○ Quartz: Recognized for their accuracy, watches with quartz movement operate via a battery or capacitor.

Oyster: Created by Rolex during the 1920s, this was the name of the first water-resistant case for watches that included a bezel, caseback and crown.

Oyster Perpetual: The first water-resistant watch in a series invented by Rolex. The watches in this series have automatic movement and don’t include a date function. To identify them, look for “Oyster Perpetual” written on the dial.

Oystersteel: A nickname for the type of stainless steel (904L) that Rolex has been using for its watches since the 1980s. Despite the creative name, this type of steel is reportedly the same as alloy 904L.

Pepsi Bezel: This term refers to a blue and red bezel that was first introduced by Rolex GMT Master watches. The color combination resembles Pepsi’s logo and several other watch manufacturers now incorporate it into their designs.

Power Reserve: This refers to the amount of time that a mechanical watch can operate after you fully wind it. Basic watches can run for roughly 40 hours, while higher-end pieces have capabilities to last for several days. Some watches even include a meter that indicates when you need to wind again.

Pusher: Similar to the crown, this piece is also located on the side of the watch. But this button (aka push-piece) handles more advanced functions, such as starting, stopping and resetting a chronograph.

● Common Size/Position: Depending on the watch you choose, the diameter of your pusher could range from about 3-5 millimeters. Unlike the crown, which is directly in line with the 3 hour marker, the pusher can be positioned at the 2 or 4 hour marker, particularly on diving watches. You may even find some pushers positioned next to the 9 hour marker.

Pussy Galore: A nickname for the Rolex GMT Master Ref. 6542, which refers to the 1964 film “Goldfinger” and the character who sported the watch.

Quartz: To put it simply, this is a battery-operated watch. How does it work? Using a microchip circuit, the battery transfers an electric signal to a tiny quartz crystal, which pulsates at a specific frequency. These watches keep more accurate time and are cheaper than their mechanical and automatic counterparts.

Rattrapante: Another name for a double or split-second chronograph. Watches with this function feature an additional seconds hand and pusher, which means two times can be recorded simultaneously.

Rehaut: A raised metal rim between the watch dial and crystal that’s typically decorated with engravings and other designs.

Repeater: A complex complication that plays a chime to indicate the time. This function is only prompted by pushing a button, and each minute and hour is represented by a different tone.

Rotor: A small metal weight in an automatic watch that swings back and forth with the movement of one’s arm. This piece winds the watch’s mainspring, so it doesn’t have to be done manually (hence the name “automatic watch”)!

Skeleton Watch: Similar to a caseback, this type of watch allows you to see the inner workings of the piece. But instead of looking through the back of the watch, you can peer through a transparent or partly cut-out dial.

Small Seconds: A term that refers to a smaller sub-dial that highlights seconds separately from hours and minutes.

Sundial: A small, second dial that can sometimes be found within the main watch dial. This can be used as a stopwatch and for other additional functions.

Tachymeter: A scale for measuring speed on a wristwatch. Speed indicators are typically seen on the outer portion of the dial or on a bezel.

Tourbillon: A type of escapement that was initially designed for pocket watches. It sits in a rotating cage inside of a wristwatch and is expected to reduce frequency fluctuations, which could be caused by gravity.

Unidirectional Bezel: This bezel is typically seen on diving watches and can only be turned one way.

Winder: An electronic box or storage container for automatic watches. The box slightly rotates, so the mainspring remains fully wound when not in use. This will help the lifespan of the piece, as lack of movement could eventually lead to negative consequences.

World Timer/World Time Watch: A timepiece that has the capability to display time in 24 different time zones.

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